Wednesday 13 January 2010

La Tania, Courcheval, The 3 valleys

For our holiday this year we headed to La Tania in France, part of the 3 valleys.
We flew into Geneva and then had a 2 1/2 hour coach journey to get to La Tania, you can optionally fly into Chamberry which is a more local airport but they suffer with delays when the weather conditions are bad or they are very busy.

La Tania itself is only a very small resort with a handfull of bars & restaurants & just a few runs of it's own so realistically you always buy a lift pass for either Courcheval or the full 3 valleys - we opted for the latter and hoped we could get as much done as possible.

The route out of La Tania is a bubble followed by a chair lift, from that point you can either ski down to Courcheval or into the next valley to Meribel.

Day 1 was spent in Courcheval valley getting our ski legs back which didn't really take too long before we were right back into form.
The very next day we instead opted to head out into the Meribel valley and beyond, I'm so glad we did because (IMO) the runs out that way were so much better than the courcheval valley (which is pretty much all pisted).
There are a lot of red runs a
nd all of the runs vary from their designated colour to "considerably steeper" than designated so I found blue runs and even green runs a lot of fun.

Day 3 we had a heavy covering of fog giving poor visibility, & it snowed most of the night / morning which was great as we had a lot of fresh powder like I'd never seen before - having never been off piste before this was pretty much my first experience of boarding in powder and I absolutely loved every minute of it!

From that point on the rest of my week was spent trying to go off piste as much as possible. As a complete beginner I didn't want to stray too far from the piste, especially as there was only me & my girlfriend who skies and didn't want to go off piste. So I spent my time just going off the edge of the piste into the powder but where I could see other people had been so I knew there weren't any nasty surprises waiting - this proved to be a lot of fun, uneven terrain & a few jumps here and there made the already interesting pistes even better!

My riding was vastly improved over last year (thanks partially to the practise I'd been getting at snowdomes throughout the summer) and I found myself bombing down the steeper runs with no problems.

One thing I will say is that Courcheval is very expensive, in fact most of the 3 valleys is. One day we stopped for 2 drinks & a single burger & chips and the cost was 36 Euros. There were one or two cheaper places if you can find them, but the best option which we used on most days was a packed lunch provided by the challet at a cost of 5 euros for sandwich, drink, crisps, friut & chocolate.

This time we opted for a catered challet rather than self catering like last time. I have to say it made a big difference for a couple of reasons, firstly because you had a cooked breakfast then just headed straight out and later got back from the slopes to tea & cake then just relaxed or had a bath while someone cooked for you, and secondly because in a challet of 16 people, we got to know everybody who were really friendly & we looked forward to sitting down on an evening for a few beers and to discuss which runs we had done during the day.

I think compared to last time, I wouldn't go back to Les Deux Alpes now, having done most of the slopes in a week I think I'd be a little bored if I went back again. The 3 valleys on the other hand is huge, and whilst we got across all 3 valleys and did numerous runs in each one, we could easily spend at least another week there without running out of runs to do - and some of the runs were so good we repeated them 2-3 times during the week. I'd probably go back to one of the other valleys next time just so you have easy access to different slopes.

So in summary, the 3 valleys is great, offers a huge variety of runs, but certainly isn't cheap!
Something else I learnt whilst out there was that it is easy to get injured! One of our friends slipped over whilst walking on the ice & dislocated her knee and another person in our challet who was an acomplished skier managed to fall on his last run back to the challet on the last day and shattered his hip!
When you buy your ski pass you can buy optional insurance for a very small fee which is called "carte neige" - this often overlooked option means the medical teams will take you off the mountain and to a hospital without charging you, otherwise you need to pay them there & then on the slope and reclaim it from your insurance at a later date - not a hassle you want with a shattered hip!!


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